Mendel Walking Tour

Last weekend we did the Gregor Johann Mendel in Brno self-paced walking tour published by the Tourist Information Centre.

The tour is about 7,5 km (4.5 miles) and takes 2,5 to 4 hours depending if you add museum visits or not.  The tour connects sites across the city associated with Gregor Johann Mendel, the father of modern genetics, and his life in Brno.

At Mendlovo náměstí (Mendel Square) is the Augustinian Abbey.  In 1843, he joined the monastery as a novice and lived there for more than 40 years.

The abbey sits between the Mendel Museum and the basilica.

After Mendel completed his theology studies in 1848, he served as a pastor for sick people at St. Anne's Hospital. 

At Šilingrovo náměstí is the Barceló hotel.  A very nice, posh hotel that opened in 2012.  The building used to be called the Municipal Courtyard where Mendel hosted meetings and lectures as vice-chairman of the Natural Science Society.

Mendel regularly contributed to the Moravian Academy of Sciences which was housed in Bishop's Court.

After he was ordained as a priest, Mendel gave his first church service at St. Michael's Church, at Dominikánské náměstí on 15 August 1847.

The New Town Hall was one of the places where Mendel participated in flower exhibitions as part of the Agricultural Society.

Mendel was a chief advisor and judge for horticultural exhibitions of the Agricultural Society.  In the 1860s many of these exhibitions were held in the Reduta Theatre.

Mendel taught physics and natural history for 14 years at the German State High School.

There's a plaque on the building in Czech, English, and German.

He gave many presentations at the German Technical University that was established in 1849.  Today it is part of Masaryk University.

In 1881, Mendel served as director of the Moravian Mortgage Bank which was headquartered at the Moravian Land Assembly.  Today the building is the seat of the Czech Constitutional Court.

Near the Bishop's Court is Mendelianum.  The premises used to be home to the Agricultural Society where Mendel was an active member.  Mendelianum presents modern genetics with other branches of science.

Lužánky Park opened in 1786 and is one of the first public parks in Central Europe.  Mendel participated in gardening exhibitions here.

Mendel is buried in the Augustinian Tomb at the Central Cemetery.  I still haven't made it out to the Central Cemetery but it's still on my list.

While we were at the New Town Hall we say some people who were protesting Russia's invasion of Ukraine. 

Я за Україну. Я за Україною. Слава Україні  Stojím za Ukrajinou!  I stand with Ukraine. 

Mendel Museum

On Saturday, we visited the Mendel Museum which is a science and history museum dedicated to Gregor Johann Mendel, the father of modern genetics.  A local Brno boy.

The museum is located in the Augustinian Abbey of St. Thomas where Mendel lived and conducted his experiments.  

It opened in 2002 and since 2007 it is a part of Masaryk University.

Since the museum is located in the Abbey, you also get to visit the monastery garden, the abbey's 18th-century Baroque library and the basilica.

Last year, to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Mendel's birth, the city unveiled Hrachovina (Peas), across from the museum.  The large bronze sculpture celebrates Mendel's genetic experiments.

Normalizace

Normalizace was the period that followed the Soviet-led invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968 that brought an end to the Prague Spring.  

"Normalisation" began in 1969 and lasted 20 years until the Velvet Revolution in 1989. 

It was the systematic restoration of hard-line control of the communist party in Czechoslovakia characterised by political repression, censorship, and enforced societal conformity.

In April 1969, Gustáv Husák replaced Alexander Dubček as First Secretary of the Communist Party.  There was no Stalin-style executions or gulags but rather administrative and bureaucratic oppression to keep people under control.  

• About 500.000 people who had supported the Dubček's reforms were kicked out of the communist party.  Many were demoted to manual labour positions regardless of their education or expertise.  
• Loyalty declarations were required to:
• Keep your job
• Study at university
• Hold cultural or academic positions
• Travel abroad
• Censorship was fully reinstated.
• Books, films, and music from the reform era were banned
• Artists, writers, musicians, and filmmakers were blacklisted
• Independent organisations were dismantled
• StB surveillance increased dramatically with informants recruited, or coerced to inform, in workplaces, apartment buildings and student dorms

Normalisation relied on quiet pressure, social isolation and the fear of consequences to keep people in check.  

Basically that the system will leave you alone so long as you don't challenge the system.  

This helps explain why today Czechs are often so skeptical towards authority, don't trust political slogans and value personal freedom.

55th Anniversary of the Invasion

Today was the 55th anniversary of the Soviet led Warsaw Pact invasion of Czechoslovakia. 

The invasion ended the reforms of the Prague Spring and ushered in the era known as "normalisation" which was the strict alignment of Soviet policy that didn't end until the Velvet Revolution in 1989.

In 2019, the Czech Senate declared 21 August as a Significant Day that's officially known as "The Day of Memory of the Victims of the 1968 Invasion and Subsequent Occupation of Czechoslovakia by Warsaw Pact Troops."

Different Time Same Occupation

There were memorials across Czechland today and there are clear parallels between the invasion of Czechoslovakia and the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

1. The aggressor fabricated internal threats to justify invading an independent country.

• In 1968, it was framed not as an invasion but as "fraternal assistance" to protect communism from alleged Western interference and counter-revolution.
• Today, Russia's narrative is that it's not a war but a "special military operation" to "protect Russian speakers" from alleged Nazism and NATO control.

2. Both the Soviet Union and Russia deny the sovereignty of smaller countries. 

• The Soviets asserted that communist countries had "limited sovereignty" that later became known as the Brezhnev Doctrine.
• Vladimir Putin claims that Ukraine is a historical part of Russia so therefore doesn't believe it is a real state.

3. Use of propaganda.

• In 1968, the Soviet media claimed that the military was invited.  They suppressed independent media and forced agreements signed under duress.
• Today, the Russian media, which is under state control, claims that they were asked to come help by Russian-speaking Ukrainians.  There are heavy disinformation campaigns and staged referenda in occupied territories like when Russian annexed Crimea.  

Many people here in Czechland see Ukraine living out 1968.  A common phrase I hear is My už toile jednou zažili which means "We've lived through this once already."  The difference I see though is that Ukraine is fighting back where as Czechoslovakia never had the chance to.

Я за Україну. Я за Україною. Слава Україні  Stojím za Ukrajinou!  I stand with Ukraine. 

Žabovřesky Walk

A while ago I found a map for a self-guided walk of Žabovřesky at the Tourist Information Office.  Since yesterday was Labour Day so decided to get some fresh air and go for a walk.  

Žabovřesky is one of Brno city districts, next to where I live, that covers 4,35 km² (about 1.7 miles²).  It dates back to the Middle Ages.  It was an independent municipality until it was annexed to Brno in 1919.  The name translates to "Frog screams."

Kounicovy koleje are student dormitories that were built in 1922.  Following the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia, on 17 November 1939, about 200 students were taken from the dormitory and sent to Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp.  From 1940, the Gestapo used the facilities for interrogations and as a prison.  Tens of thousands of prisoners passed through the prison and at least 800 people died here.

After Brno was liberated, it became a prison for Nazis and collaborators from May to September 1945.  During this time at least 300 people died there from torture and were buried in mass graves at the Central Cemetery.    

In 1978, the dorms were declared a national cultural monument and in the garden is a memorial for the victims and to victory over Fascism.  

Since 1999, the dorms belong to the Brno University of Veterinary and Pharmaceutical Sciences.

Across the street from the dormitories is the headquarters of the Národní úřad pro kybernetickou a informační bezpečnost (NÚKIB).  The National Office for Cyber and Information Security is the central office for cybersecurity and cryptography.  NÚKIB has jurisdiction over the National Security Centre (NCKB).

Bohuslav Fuchs House was built in 1928, by the renowned architect who worked from a private studio in his villa.

In 1929, he resigned from his position as the city's main architect but continued to work from his home office.  He then connected his villa to the neighbouring house. 

Kino Lucerna is began screening films on 29 May 1915.  The single-storey Art Nouveau building still functions as a single-screen movie house.  It is the oldest operating cinema in Brno and the second oldest in Czechland.  

The Church of Our Lady Help of Christians was built in 1994 and consecrated in 1995.  The 500 seat church was built on the original site of Church of the Salesian Order.  The original church was built in 1939 but the order was banned in the 1950s by the Communist regime.

Sono Centrum is a multi-purpose facility that opened in 2016. The  "Death Star" is a nine-story building that combines a hotel, a music club, a conference hall and a restaurant.  

The Masaryk University Faculty of Law opened in 1919 and is one of four law schools in the country.  The present building opened in 1932 until 1939 when the Gestapo made it their headquarters until 1945.  Classrooms were used as cells and interrogation rooms.  Eventually the building was used by the Military Academy until after the Velvet Revolution in 1989 when it was returned to the Law Faculty. 

In 2010, a monument of former President Edvard Beneš was unveiled in front of the faculty.  The statue cost 1,6 million Kč (~$77K) and ame at the request of members of the Czechoslovak Legionnaires' Association and the Association of Czechoslovak Foreign Pilots 1939-1945.  Although not at some controversy as the Beneš Decrees played a significant role in relocating ethnic Germans from Czechoslovakia after the war. This is locally know as the Brno Death March.  Later this year it will be 75 years since he passed away.

The Chapel of St. Wenceslas was built in 1906 and is dedicated to the patron saint of Czechland.  The chapel facade is a protected cultural monument and the the building was renovated in 2018.

The Dušan Jurkovič Villa was built in 1906 by one of the best 19th century architects in Central Europe.  

Wilsonův les, Wilson's Forest, is a 34,4 hectare (85 acre) forest park on the southern edge of the Žabovřesky.  In 1888 it was called Kaiserwald, the Imperial Forest, to honour Emperor Franz Joseph I who was celebrating the 40th anniversary of his reign.  In 1918, it was renamed in honour of American President Woodrow Wilson who supported the establishment of an independent Czechoslovakia.  During WWII it was called Kaiserwald again and from 1953 to 1991 it was known as Jirásek's Forest after writer Alois Jirásek.  I guess having a forest named after an American President isn't something that would have been something favoured by the Communist regime.

From the hill you get a great view of the city.

There's quite a bit to see just walking around Žabovřwsky.  Of course I supposed it couldn't be called "Frog Screams" if there wasn't some kind of frog motif.  

The art nouveau building, built in 1908, has a golden frog at the entrance.

The weather was perfect so it was great to walk around the neighbourhood all day.  Definitely need to explore some other Brno neighbourhoods as well.