3 Bros' Hostel

A couple of months ago I got a random e-mail from one of the guys that recently opened a hostel in Cieszyn.  He had read my blog, knew that I liked Poland, and had an offer for me.  I was welcome to come stay at the hostel and if I liked it then maybe I would mention it on my blog.  Not a bad arrangement.

The 3 Bros' Hostel is the newest in Cieszyn.  It's about half way between Prague and Kraków.

It only takes about 15 minutes to walk to from the train station in Český Těšín.

They had dorms with shared bathroom facilities, as well as, private ensuite rooms.

We had a private room, with our own toilet and shower, for four people.  I can honestly say that I've never seen a triple high, four person bunk bed before.

The hostel offers free towels, bedding, breakfast, Wi-Fi, unlimited tea and coffee, a computer with Internet access, and luggage lockers.  There's also a nice common room with books and games.


Adam was working the weekend we were here and he took great care of us.  He pointed out all of the things we should see in the city and gave us some restaurant recommendations.   Dziękuję Adam!

This is a really nice, clean hostel and highly recommended.  Definitely, completely different from my first hostel experience in Milan.

Disclosure:  We stayed here two nights.  Krasimir and I stayed for free.  Nat and Eric received excellent discounts.

Off to Český Těšín/Cieszyn

Last year was Nat's "not" going away party.  When we thought she was going to move back to Scotland, she and I took a weekend trip to Warsaw since she had never been to Poland before.  Well, our luck finally ran out.  Next month, she has to move back to the UK.  Though instead of Edinburgh she will move back to London.

Since her farewell trip last time was to Poland we figured we would do it again.  So this afternoon we're off to visit Český Těšín / Cieszyn.  It's a divided city that is partially in ČR and in Poland.

Apparently, after WWI, there was a disagreement as to whether the city should go to Czechoslovakia or to Poland.  The Olza River runs through the city so that became the border between the two countries.  It's hard for me to imagine a city, split in two, with border guards on each side.  The only example I can think of is Berlin during the Cold War.  With both ČR and Poland being Schengen members the border is now open.

http://3broshostel.com/en/

Some guys recently opened a hostel in Cieszyn and sent me a message.  They enjoyed my blog and knew that I liked Poland.  So they invited me to come stay at their place for a weekend.  And perhaps if I like it I would write about it.  Sounds fair to me.  So this afternoon, Nat, Eric, Krasimir and I are taking the three hour train to Český Těšín.  Then it should be a 15 minute walk to the 3 Bros' Hostel on the Polish side.

Embracing Georgia Tour, Georgia

Dan flew home early yesterday morning while Heidi and I joined in on Envoy Hostel's Embracing Georgia tour.  This 11-hour tour highlighted the Georgian Military Highway, Ananuri, Kazbegi, Gudauri and the Gergeti Trinity church. 

The Georgian Military Highway, საქართველოს სამხედრო გზა, is a mountain route connecting Russia's Northern Caucasus and the Southern Caucasus countries.  Since ancient times, the route has been a key link between Europe and Asia.  After Russia annexed east Georgia in the 19th century, and made road improvements for troop movements, it became known as the "military highway".  It's a very rough ride but the scenic views along the war are awesome.

Our first visit was to Ananuri, ანანური, a 17th century castle complex on the Aragvi River, about 72 km (45 miles) from Tbilisi. 





In 2007, it was put on the tentative list to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Zhinvali, ჟინვალი, is a town on the Aragvi River.  It is home to one of the country's largest hydroelectric power plants.


The highest point along the highway is at the Javi Pass which is 2,395 meters (7,858 feet) high.  Mount Kazbegi, ყაზბეგი, is 5,033 meters (16,512 feet) high, is the 3rd highest mountain in Georgia and straddles the continental divide.

There are two legends associated with Kazbegi.  The first one is that Prometheus was chained to the mountain as punishment for stealing fire from the Greek Gods and giving it to mortals.  The second one is that Christ's manger was brought here and hidden somewhere in the area.

 

The Russian-Georgian Friendship monument is located near Gudauri, გუდაური, a popular ski resort area close to the Russian border.  

 

It's said that the first tile which fell out was Mother Russia's brain.

Our next stop was in Stepantsminda, სტეფანწმინდა, a small village about 157 km (98 miles) north of Tbilisi.  We had lunch at a Russian guesthouse and the food was amazing!  

After lunch, we had a seriously steep hike up a mountain to see the Gergeti Trinity Church, წმინდა სამება.  It was built in the 14th century.  During Soviet times all religious services were outlawed but the church is now an active Georgian Orthodox church.

Enlinking Caucasus Tour, Armenia

It's a six hour drive from Yerevan to Tbilisi but that is without stopping along the way and missing the sites between.  Aside from their Yerevan location, Envoy Hostel also has a Tbilisi location and they offer a very cool tour called Enlinking Caucasus.  They combine transport to Georgia along with stops along the way at some monasteries in northern Armenia, plus lunch.


Our first stop of the day was in Aparan, Ապարան, about 50 km (31 miles) northwest of Yerevan.

The town has about 6,600 people and is a mix of Armenians and Kurds.

Aparan Alphabet Park

We stopped at a local market and picked up some fresh bread.   


Lavash is the most popular type of bread in Armenia, Iran and Azerbaijan.  It's a soft flat bread made out of flour, water and salt.  The dough is rolled out and cooked against the hot walls of a clay oven.

 
Vanadzor, Վանաձոր, is Armenia's third-largest city.  It's about 128 km (80 miles) north of Yerevan and is home to around 105,000 people.  The city seems to be known for its large chemical plants.

Sanahin, Սանահին, is a village in northern Armenia.  The 10th century Sanahin Monastery complex is the village's most well known site.

Haghpat, Հաղպատ, is another nearby village.  The village is home to around 800 people.  The Haghpat Monastery is another 10th century complex.  In 1996, the monasteries at Sanahin and Haghpat were co-listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We stopped to have a BBQ lunch in Alaverdi, Ալավերդի, not far from the Georgian border.  Everything was really tasty.

Akhtala, Ախթալա, is 186 km (116 miles) from Yerevan.  In 1939, it was upgraded from a village to a city and is home to around 2,800 people.  The 10th century Akhtala Monastery is inactive but among the best preserved sites in the country.

Our guide Hranoush

This combined transport and tour is a brilliant idea.  It would be cool if other something like this was available between other cities.  While different people have joined in on the tours each day there have been two other regulars.  Dan from Gothenburg, Sweden and Heidi from Helsinki, Finland.  So it looks like after exploring Armenia together we'll spend some more time together checking out the Caucasus.  Heidi already has her Azeri visa so if I get mine on time then we'll travel together to Baku on Monday.  I have to give a big 'Thank You' to Hranoush who has been our guide on all of our Armenian adventures.

Enlightened Armenia Tour, Armenia

Today's Envoy Hostel adventure was their 10 hour Enlightened Armenia tour which focuses on Echmiadzin, Khor Virap and Noravank.

Echmiadzin, Էջմիածին, is the fourth-largest city in Armenia; about 18 km (11 miles) west of Yerevan.  It is home to around 58,000 people.  Echmiadzin is the seat of the Catholicos which is the head of the Holy Armenian Apostolic Church so it is the spiritual heart of the country.

Saint Hripsimé Church, Սուրբ Հռիփսիմէի եկեղեցի, was built in 618 AD and is one of the country's oldest churches.  During Soviet times, this was one of the few churches in Armenia that remained active.

Tombstone of St. Hripsimé

Hripsimé was a beautiful Christian nun in Rome who was to be forcefully married to the Roman emperor Diocletian.  Hripsimé, the abbess Gayané and 38 other nuns fled to Armenia.  King Trdat discovered where the nuns were hiding.  He fell in love with Hripsimé and later Gayané.  As each refused his advances they were both tortured and martyred.  Churches were built at the sites where they were each tortured.  King Trdat later converted to Christianity in 301 AD and made it the official religion.

 
Saint Gayané Church, Սուրբ Գայանէ եկեղեցի, was built in 630 AD.  The dome and some ceilings were renovated in 1652.

The Mother See of Holy Echmiadzin, Մայր Աթոռ Սուրբ Էջմիածին, is the administrative and spiritual headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church.  There is a theological seminary, chancellery, residence halls, museum and cathedral.


The Mother Cathedral of Holy Echmiadzin, Մայր Տաճար Սուրբ Էջմիածին, was built in 301 - 303 AD.  It is the world's oldest state-built church.

The treasury is home to many holy relics.  The Holy Lance is the spear which pierced Jesus Christ, while he hung on the cross during the Crucifixion, and was brought to Armenia by the Apostle Jude.

This piece contains a piece of wood from Noah's Ark.

The churches of St. Hripsimé, St. Gayané, and the cathedral are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Khor Virap, Խոր Վիրապ, is a monastery and probably one of the most visited sites in Armenia.  The first chapel was built here in 642 AD.  The current chapel was built in 1662.

Mount Ararat & the Turkish border

Khor Virap is 30 km (19 miles) south of Yerevan and only about 100 meters (330 feet) from the Turkish border.  The border between Armenia and Turkey is closed but there is an awesome view of Mount Ararat.

Our next stop was in Pokr Vedi, Փոքր Վեդի, for lunch with another Armenian family.  It was so good!!  After tea we continued on to our next destination.

Noravank, Նորավանք, is a 13th century monastery 122 km (76 miles) south of Yerevan.  The monastery was founded in 1205 AD.  The complex hosts two churches.

The most famous is the two-storey Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) which was completed in 1339.  Narrow steps on the face of the church are the only way to get to the top.



The second church, Surb Karapet, was built from 1216 to 1227.


A 6,100 year old winery was discovered in 2007 in caves in the village of Areni, Արենի.  Archaeologists believe it to be at least 1,000 years older than the next oldest winery.  In 2008, the world's oldest shoe was found here as well.  The leather shoe found here is 5,500 years old.

On our way back to Yerevan we stopped at a local winery in Areni for a tour.  The winery opened in 1994 and had several good wines which we got to try.

This was another fun-filled day in Armenia.  Between yesterday's Essential Armenia tour and today's Enlightened Armenia tour, we covered 520 km (323 miles).

Essential Armenia Tour

Envoy Hostel in Yerevan offers tours throughout Armenia, whether or not you are staying there.  Today I went with five others on their Essential Armenia tour.  The tour lasted 10 hours, included all of our entry fees and lunch with an Armenian family.  Not bad for 17,500 AMD ($42.50).

Our first stop was at the Sevanavank Monastery, Սևանավանք.  The complex is on the northwest shore of Lake Sevan, Սևանա լիճ, which is the largest lake in the Caucasus region.  It is also one of the world's largest fresh-water, high-altitude lakes.

The two churches are Surb Arakelots, "Holy Apostoles", and Surb Astvatsatsin, "Holy Mother of God".  The monastery was founded in 874 AD by Princess Mariam.  In addition to being a place of worship and pilgrimage, the monastery was a place of exile for noblemen who had fallen into disgrace and monks who had sinned.  The complex underwent restoration from 1956 to 1957.

Vacation spot for Armenian writers

The monastery was originally built on a small island.  During the Stalin era the lake was drained and the island became a peninsula.

Nearby Russian military base

On the southern shore is a guesthouse of the Armenian Writers' Union.  The eastern shore is home to the Armenian president's summer residence.  There is also a Russian military installation nearby.

 
Hayravank, Հայրավանք, is another monastery on the shores of Lake Sevan.  It was built in the late 9th century.  The monastery was actively used until the 12th century.


The Noratus Cemetery, Նորատուսի գերեզմանատուն, is about 90 km (56 miles) north of Yerevan.  The seven hectare (17 acre) cemetery is home to over 800 khachkars carved between the 9th - 17th centuries.

A khachkar is an Armenian cross-stone.  In 2009-2010, the US Embassy in Yerevan provided financial support to rehabilitate the medieval cemetery.  The symbolism and craftsmanship of khachkars has been on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010.

Tombstone depicting a wedding celebration

Most of the cross-stones are covered in moss.  Many include depictions of weddings and farm life.  The oldest khachkars here date back to the 10th century.

Noratus is now the largest surviving collection of Khachkars in the world.  Previously, the world's largest collection was in Julfa, Azerbaijan but they were destroyed by the Azeri government from 1998 to 2006.


We then went to Lchashen, Լճաշեն, a town with around 4,500 people, where we had lunch with an Armenian family.




Lunch was great and I tried my first tarragon lemonade.  While popular in Armenia, Georgia and Russia, it's not my favorite.

The monastery at Geghard, Գեղարդ, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.  It was founded in the 4th century at the site of a sacred spring inside a cave.  The original monastery was destroyed in the 9th century by Arabs.  The main chapel was built in 1215.

The monastery has been known as "the Monastery of the Spear" because the spear which wounded Jesus Christ at the Crucifixion was supposedly brought here by the Apostle Jude.  Today it is stored in the treasury at Echmiadzin.

Garni, Գառնի, is a temple complex about 7 k (+4 miles) southwest of Geghard; 32 km (20 miles) from Yerevan.  It was built in the 1st century AD.

The temple was erected in 115 AD.  It was sacked in 1386.  Then in 1679 it was destroyed by an earthquake.  The temple was rebuilt from 1969 to 1975.

Charents Arch was built in 1957.  It is between Geghard/Garni and Yerevan.  It is a great place for a view of Mount Ararat and the valley.

Mount Ararat